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IntelliChoice Value Rating
The chart above shows the purchase price versus ownership cost for each car from a specific vehicle class. The cars with better than average ownership cost/purchase price correlations are the best values, and these best value cars are represented by the dots below the curve. (i.e. the cars that have a lower ownership cost compared to its purchase price.) Those cars, which are worse than average or poor values, appear above the curve.
One way to view the graph is to draw a vertical line through any purchase price. You may see several dots that fall on this line - each of which is a car with a similar purchase price. However, notice the difference in ownership costs of each car represented by the vertical position of the dot. Two cars with the same purchase price can have thousands of dollars difference in ownership costs. This is what separates "good value" cars from "poor value" cars.
What is a good car value?
A "good car value" is one whose cost to own and operate is less than expected. The lower the cost to own and operate a car compared to what is expected, the better the value of that car.
But how do we know a car's "expected cost"?
For each car in the class, IntelliChoice plots the car's purchase price against the total five-year cost to own and operate it as determined by IntelliChoice research. Each dot on the above chart represents a specific car. Generally, we find that as the purchase price of the car increases, the cost to own and operate that car increases. This is why the dots on the graph tend to rise upward and to the right. This phenomenon also makes intuitive sense - as the purchase price rises, financing costs tend to rise, as do insurance, depreciation, taxes, and most other car ownership costs.
This is an important concept. It's normal for car ownership costs to rise as purchase price rises. Therefore, we can't just establish one "average" ownership cost number for each class, since cars in the class have different purchase prices. (This is why the "Relative" shown on each chart is different for cars in the same car class.)
Using statistical techniques, IntelliChoice "connects the dots" to form a curve that defines, for this car class, the relationship between the car's purchase price and car's ownership costs. This curve is our "expected cost" curve. The curve defines, for any car in the class, the five-year ownership cost that we would expect to see at each possible purchase price. If every car in the class were an average value, then all the dots would fall exactly on the curve. However, it's rare that any dot is exactly on the curve. Some dots are a little higher or lower, and some are a lot higher or lower. The dots that are a little lower are better than average car values, while the dots that are a lot lower are excellent car values (A dot that is a lot lower than the curve has ownership costs much lower than expected for a car of its purchase price). Conversely, a dot a little higher than the curve is a poorer than average car value, while a dot that is much higher than the curve is a poor car value.
Value is a relative term, not an absolute term. It is performing better than the logical expectation.
So is a Mercedes-Benz E320 expensive to own and operate? Certainly in an absolute sense. Most other cars cost less. But, when its cost to own and operate is plotted against cars with comparable invoice prices, the E320 costs less. So the E320 is not expensive to own and operate - it is a good car value. The Mercedes does not have low ownership costs, but it has low ownership costs for its invoice price.
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Article From Four Wheeler Magazine
1986-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner Suspension - Long-Travel Toyota Tech
How To Make Your IFS Toyota Flex Better
By Robin Stover, Jesse Katz
photographer: Robin Stover, Mark Yamamoto
IFS-equipped vehicles offer excellent handling and ride quality for high-speed desert romping and everyday street driving. However, independent front suspension systems lack the crucial range of motion necessary to ensure ample traction on the trail. For this reason, most rockcrawlers prefer the older-style, solid-axle setup. Without low-hanging bracketry and limited articulation, a solid front axle simply works better when the road gives way to boulders. This is why several companies offer kits to convert the factory IFS to the stronger solid-axle arrangement. One such kit we discovered recently was this new one from the experts over at Marlin Crawler. Designed for '86-'95 Toyota pickups and 4Runners, Marlin's kit provides most of the parts and pieces required for those looking for more articulation, and a stronger front drivetrain. The kit provides 5 full inches of lift and weighs in heavily on the mechanical difficulty scale. We recommend a high-tech know-how and a decent assortment of tools to complete this installation. That's why we enlisted the expertise of Toby Lavender, owner and operator of Triple-X Traction in Seaside, California. You may remember Toby from Top Truck Challenge 2002, where he successfully piloted his flexible flatfender to a Fourth-Place finish. Toby and his crew have completed dozens of clean solid-axle swaps since he started the business five years ago. It's important to understand several technical aspects of a solid-axle conversion before breaking out the torch. So follow along as we highlight the conversion process and showcase some very unique components that will make any IFS truck ready to rock.  This is the solid-axle swap kit from Marlin Crawler. We liked the kit because it features larger, stronger U-bolts, U.S.-sourced leaf springs, Bilstein shocks, a heavy-duty tie rod and drag link, and a pair of solid billet steering arms. Also included in this photo are locking hubs, dust covers, spindles and a steering knuckle that we sourced from a dismantler called Yota Yard in Denver, Colorado. |  1. The first step of the conversion process required that all the stock front axle and suspension components were removed. |  2. Out came the torch during step two. Cutting off all the unneeded IFS bracketry took a bit of time to complete. It helped to have the vehicle on a lift at eye level for better visibility. Once the cutting was finished, Toby smoothed out all the rough edges with a grinder. |  3.Once all the finish grinding was complete, Toby began work on mounting the front spring hanger. Using a jack, Toby positioned the hanger under the frame with the leading edge of the hanger flush with the front of the crossmember. Then he centered the hanger, and tack-welded it in place. |  4.To mount the rear of the front springs, marks were made on the frame using special jigs provided in the kit. Toby used a plasma torch to cut round holes in each side of the frame. Once the frame tubes were properly aligned, Toby welded them to the frame. |  5.With the front springs in place, Toby began work on the new front-axle assembly. To make things simple, we decided to start from scratch with a completely new fabricated housing from Front Range Off Road. Front Range builds these housings to spec and each features 3.5-inch O.D. DOM tubes with a 0.375-inch wall thickness. Additionally, they have a centersection that is formed from 1/4-inch-thick plate, which comes pre-drilled and tapped for whatever third member you specify. This axlehousing combines the strength of a Dana 60 with the great looks of a master fabricator's hard labor. These housings will fit any gear ratio, any locker, four-cylinder, V-6, or high-pinion third members. We ordered our housing to be 3 inches wider than stock so that we wouldn't have to run the wheel spacers provided with Marlin's kit. As a result, the tie rod and drag link provided with Marlin's kit, as well as the axleshafts, all had to be custom built for our axle. |
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